A Thorough Soaping

“Since we left Kyirong (10 weeks ago) we had not been able to wash or bathe, and our hair and beards were frozen stiff… We came to a regular lake whose black bubbling waters flowed off to a clear brook. Of course we decided to bathe, and walked into the water at a point where it was pleasantly warm. As we walked upstream, it grew hotter and hotter… I wallowed in the hot water. I had brought with me my last piece of soap from Kyirong, and put it on the bank beside me, looking forward to a thorough soaping climax of my bath. Unluckily, I had not noticed that a crow was observing me with interest. He suddenly swooped and carried off my treasure. I sprang onto the bank with an oath, but in a moment was back in the hot water, my teeth clattering with cold. In Tibet the crows are as thievish as magpies are with us” – Heinrich Harrer | Travel Quote of the Day